Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.